The Great American Rideabout ended on June 22nd, 2011. There is no good reason for not writing this entry sooner than December 6th, but here it is. We left off in upstate New York, somewhere not too far east of Syracuse.
We found a pretty great campgroud to stay at, where we had our pick of what seemed like hundreds of nicely spaced and nice and grassy lots. Paul and I did our usual reconnoiter to check out the most hammock friendly sites, and found plenty of contenders. We settled on a big lot with no immediate neighbors. The bathroom hut (with proper running water) was close enough to be convenient, but not so close that it was noticeable. It was warm and grassy enough that I could enjoy a lovely lay-down in the grass while I called Andrea and let our hot water for dinner boil. What I didn't notice at the time, however, were the tiny biting flies. They don't hurt when they get you, but they leave a potent red itchy bite behind, and they like to travel in large numbers. These bites would be me companions until about a week after the rideabout ended.
Setting off the next morning, we resumed our eastward course toward none of than Massachusetts! New York provided us with a great ride on a cool sunny road cutting a swath through the woods toward home. Rt. 20 was just right. Not a boring highway, but not a wandering back road either. Light on strip malls, and heavy on small town centers. It was the kind of road we had in mind for this trip from the outset.
We were making great time that day, thanks in part to camping a little further east than planned the night before. We whizzed by the Petrified Creatures Museum of Natural History. Just look at this sign and tell me you wouldn't stop.
So, we turned our bikes around and went back to check it out. Of course, you enter into a gift shop filled with Chinese crap. Mostly dinosaur and fossil related. The owner of the place was behind the counter and she was apparently looking for a lengthy conversation, but that was OK. We were doing good on time and she was perfectly pleasant. But, the price of admission was too high for what appeared to be someone's back yard filled with home made dino-statues. I don't mean to sound like a snob, but at this point we've seen a lot of impressive dinosaur statues, and I don't think what we saw through the fence would stack up. So, we got back onto our bikes, legs slightly refreshed, and set a course for Nassau, New York!
What's in Nassau? There is an abandoned barn there, and if you drive by in the right lighting, you can see hundreds of reflective little cat eyes looking out at you. But more importantly, our friends Skippy and Jill live there, and it's on our way to our final destination for the night. It was sort of surreal pulling into their drive way, early in the evening, like I have done many times before. Jill made us dinner and cookies and Skippy shuffled around in his slippers like the old man that he is. It was a great time with old friends. Even though the end of the trip wasn't far ahead of us, it felt like a needed moment of home and familiarity.
This is Jill and Skippy at my wedding months later. See, Skippy's not really an old man.
We couldn't stay that long though, because we had one more stop before we were through for the day. Continuing east, we headed for Pittsfield, Massachusetts. Pittsfield is what passes for the big city around the Berkshires, and I know it well. It's not far from where I went to college in North Adams, and our home for the night is a house I've slept at many many times.
Rick Derby and his family Sandy and Kemly are long time friends of mine. Rick produces a documentary film I have been shooting with him for what seems like forever. Many many years. The shoots are usually around the Berkshires and southern Vermont, so his house in Pittsfield is like the film's headquarters. This time, though, no one was home but me and Paul. That night I slept in a familiar bed in a familiar house after visiting friends from college, but I still had a long way to go before I was home.
The Great American Rideabout
Tuesday, December 6, 2011
Sunday, July 3, 2011
Ontario and Onward
This border crossing should be the worst yet. The third time crossing into Canada in a little over a week. I expected to be interviewed again this time and probably have our bikes searched. But the officer didn't give us a second look. She asked the usual questions, took our word for it, and let us pass.
Ontario was from what I saw, the most America-like of the provinces. I guess that's because it's nearly surrounded by Michigan and New York. And it must be pretty common for Americans to cut across eastward like we were doing, and the Canadians want it to look nice. The highways here have ramps and many lanes, unlike SOME provinces.
It's tricky what they say about Niagara Falls. Everyone says the Canadian side is better. The American side is Chump Town if you are foolish enough to visit. Well, that seems half true. The Canadian side seemed indeed much larger and more built up. The view was certainly much better as well. But that is because the real falls are on the American Side. Canada wins this one.
In case you weren't sure which side of the border you were on.
Nope, we didn't ride it.
There's an awesome statue of Nikola Tesla there. What a stylish guy.
The best border crossing waiting line so far, and our last. Nice view from the bridge. Better than the mud puddles of Saskatchewan.
You wouldn't believe the lunch I had in Syracuse at Dinosaur Barbecue. This meat loaf was a real melange of meats, and it came with two sides and corn bread. And for seven dollars! Nice.
On the way out of town, the road just ended. They must have let an intern plan this part of the city.
Don't be alarmed! This pic was taken on the grounds of our camp ground in upstate New York. We were going about 15 MPH.
Moving on!
Saturday, July 2, 2011
Later In Oshkosh...
After the Airventure Museum, Paul and I set course for Lake Michigan and the SS Badger ferry. There's something pretty awesome about tying your bike down in the hold of a coal powered ship.
The SS Badger is a really old ship, but it has all kinds of style. There were two cafeterias with fair prices, a theater screening Tron 2, and two TV rooms. One showing FOX News and one showing CNN.
It was super foggy as we set off from Wisconsin and the Central time zone.
It cleared up very nicely as we reached the middle of the lake. Paul and I settled into chaise lounges on the deck and had a snooze.
To offset my carbon footprint from that day, I have stopped pushing redwoods over with my bare hands.
Reminded me of this.
Oh, didn't I mention? You could get a massage on board, in the middle of a crowded room of gawking onlookers.
Upon arrival in Michigan, we caught glimpse of the SS Spartan, the Badger's sister ship. Nice looking ships!
We rode north up the coast of Lake Michigan a ways on the recommendation of a friendly ferry patron.
Lookin' good, Lake Michigan. It looks practically tropical. White sand and clear blue water.
At a scenic overlook, Paul immortalized his love for Billy Joel.
We stumbled into a small car show in a really lovely little park / dock. Everyone was very welcoming. I couldn't help myself when I saw the DeLorean. OK, the pose isn't right, but I was going from memory. Cut me some slack.
We had to turn east to get to the Ontario border the next day.
We found Chemical Bank along the way. I thought it was invented by the Seinfeld writers. I've always wondered why Nana Seinfeld's bank had such a strange name.
Delicious pizza at a delicious price.
Look out, Ontario!
Friday, June 24, 2011
Adventures in Oshkosh
"What do you think Junior? You think these hands - they've been soaking in Ivory Liquid?"
A long highway ride took us to Darwin, MN, home of the world's largest ball of twine (rolled by one man.)
Not quite as big as the twine ball from Sam n Max Hit The Road.
A fireman reads a plaque.
Self portrait.
It's more of a twine gumdrop.
That night we stayed outside of Minneapolis with my sister's pals Alice and Allyn. They have a really huge house and made us delicious dinner and cookies! The next morning, we stopped on the other side of town and I got a new rear tire mounted. Mike the mechanic even found the time to change our oil. He was a swell fella.
Onward to Oshkosh, Wisconsin! Nice campground.
Our neighbors were loudly cursing like sailors. To be fair, they did have a boat. Then their neighbor on the other side opened her camper window and yelled at them for their poor behavior. Then they whispered to each other.
Sunset over a nearby prison.
The Airventure Museum in Oshkosh is the EAA's year round home for their planes and other cool stuff. Nice place!
This is a really cool Bugatti air racer from the 1930s I think it was. Those are counter rotating props!
This full scale replica of Spaceship One moved, just like the real one. It was very impressive.
It's OK, those guys were jerks anyway.
Paul I and Paul II. Who names their plane Paul anyway? And why Paul I? Was he certain it would get shot down and he would need a second one? I guess he was wrong.
Me and my old favorite plane.
Me and my new favorite plane.
There is a little theater inside the S-38.
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